Wine Law

15 Nevertheless, while one can observe that regional classifications are typically only used for wines of superior quality that are purchased by knowledgeable consumers, some degree of confusion exists due to numerous contradictions among classifications. For example, St. Emilion Grand Cru, an AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) that differs from the “ordinary” St. Emilion only due to stricter rules regarding allowed yields and élevage, does not in itself guarantee superior quality. This could easily mislead the less experienced customer that knows about the (very different) value of the term “Grand Cru” in Burgundy. The same ambiguity somehow affects the most prestigious wines too (if one compares, for example, the meaning of “ Premier cru classé ” in Medoc and “ Premier cru ” in Burgundy). Naturally, the root of the variety of French regional (one could also say “internal”) classifications is historical and cultural 53 , and, in our opinion, very fascinating. However, one may wonder how disoriented the average wine consumer could be. The existence of a standard geographical origin indication system for all European wines (based on the French model) may at least provide consumers with comparable information among all European wine regions. Therefore, even if a consumer is puzzled by navigating among Medoc, Graves and St. Emilion different classifications systems within the Bordeaux area 54 , at least they can be reassured in knowing that a French AOC is the equivalent of an Italian DOC (Denominazione d’Origine Controllata) or Spanish DO (Denominación de Origen) 55 . Unfortunately, this is not wholly true. Since pre-existing geographic indications are protected according to Article 112 of Regulation 1308/2013, there is an ample range of indications that do not fall into the pan-European standardisation. For instance, an equivalent of the Italian DOCG (Denominazione d’Origine Controllata e Garantita – a level above the DOC) does not exist in France nor most European Member States, although it exists as Denominación d’Origen Calificada 53 M. F OURCADE , The Vile and the Noble: On the Relation between Natural and Social Classifications in the French Wine World , in The Sociological Quarterly, 2012. 54 For a specific insight on the complexities of consumer perception within wine classifications, see L. S TUART & C. E. S MITH , The Use of Quality and Reputation Indicators by Consumers: The Case of Bordeaux Wine , in Journal of Consumer Policy, 1997; M. P. SÁ ENZ N AVAJAS , E. C AMPO , A. S UTAN , J. B ALLESTER , & D. V ALENTIN , Perception of Wine Quality according to Extrinsic Cues: The Case of Burgundian Wine Consumers , in Food Quality and Preference, 2013. 55 See Regulation 1151/2012.